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WHOLESALE SUPPLIER OF HUMAN HAIR TO PROFESSIONALS 

Quality Control

100% Human Remy Hair

The hair is collected and sorted from various sources with the root and tip traveling in the same direction to ensure the cuticle does not tangle or matte. The cuticles are not stripped and remain aligned in one direction.

Silicone Free

Silicone is a plastic coating that supplers like to put on their hair extensions in order for them to look and feel shiny. After a few washes the coating is gone and clients have to roughly comb the hair to get tangles out causing stress and breakage of their extensions.

Our company started manufacturing human hair over 20 years ago when we first started supplying hair for wigmakers and hair replacement centers. We learned over the years there are two key elements necessary to achieving long lasting natural looking hair extensions.

  • First is choosing the healthiest raw human hair we can source.
  • Second is how the hair is processed into finished hair extensions.

 

There are over 50 steps from beginning to end for making raw hair into finished extensions and each main phase of production requires quality control to ensure the best results. The following is a brief explanation of the production phases, some of the inspection parameters and an example of one quality control test.

RAW HAIR COLLECTION

The Purchasing of Indian Temple Hair

Testing for Remy vs Non-Remy hair

We purchase raw hair from Indian temples that is collected by our dealers and then brought to our factory in Chennai, India. Before we make a selection, we inspect the hair based on the following:

Inspection Characteristics:

  • Hair fiber coarseness
  • Roots aligned at the top and cuticles running in the same direction facing downwards to the tip - indicating Remy hair
  • Presence of gray hairs or color treated hair
  • Smooth with even color and full ends.
  • Lice check

This indicated the natural state of human hair as it grows from the scalp. Once these parameters have been determined, we make a selection.

Quality Control Test:

How to test for Remy vs. Non-Remy hair.

Dry Tangle Test: If non-remy hair is suspected, a quick but effective test on hair strands are performed to see what direction the cuticles are running. The test is performed using the friction between fingers as cuticle scale edges will "catch" on the skin and will climb towards roots.

CLEANING AND SORTING

All selected hair is washed, wet tangle tested, dried and then sorted into varying groups by texture, length, color level output and which bundles will be finished for Premium or Layered extensions.

 

Inspection Parameters:

  • Wet tangle testing,
  • Separating hairs that have too much weathering such as excessive split ends and frizz
  • Segregating hair based on desired outcome
  • Selecting healthiest and strongest hair for light blonds requires visual examination of root to tip color variation backed up by measurements.

 

 

Quality Control Test:

How can you measure if hair will bleach from dark brown to platinum blond without total damage to cuticle layers?

A micrometer is used to measure the denier of the hair strands to make sure it falls into the acceptable measurements of 48-55 microns at the point of 10" from roots. If the hair is too fine or too coarse, it cannot be used for making light blond colors.

BLEACHING STAGE

This is a 1-2 week process where all bundles are submerged into an oxidation bath that slowly removes pigmentation and lifts into a predetermined color level. We consider the bleach color to be the primary base of the final color, so making sure the base color is correct from root to tip is critical. Every bundle is checked from root to ends for excessive degradation of disulfide bonds which is visibly apparent by fiber fractures that make the ends look crinkled and fragile. Bleaching is done in very small quanities in order to reduce damage.

Inspection Parameters:

  • Hair must maintain elasticity, acceptable moisture content levels,
  • Have no visible damage of disulfide bonds (fragile lifeless hair strands) or significant reduction of cuticle layers that causes swelling (hair appears twice as thick when wet and straw like when dry).

 

Quality Control Test:

How to test for elasticity?

By establishing rigid standards of stretch levels using our tensile strain machine and program, we were able to give our production line the numbers to follow when testing for stretched length and recovery. If hair is stretched more than 10% of its original length, there will be irreversible damage and it cannot bounce back to its original length. So writing down the exact length of the hair before and after bleaching and then checking random strands pulled from the bundles. Also wet combing tests will immediately show if the hair strands no longer have any elasticity by hair strands stretching and breaking.

DYING STAGE

Using numerous small pots with complex dye recipes the hairs are dyed slowly over heat making sure roots, middle and ends are absorbed evenly. We use pre-metalized acid dyes imported from Switzerland. This type of fiber dye normally used for wool textiles, give vibrant but natural colors. The color acts like acid dyes for vibrancy but bond with the hair like metallic dyes so they last a long time.

 

Inspection Parameters:

  • Temperature, ph levels, color saturation and root/tip variation are carefully monitored.
  • When dye bath is completed, hair is rinsed and cooled down and checked for color saturation.

 

 

Quality Control Test:

How do you test for color saturation?

Color fastness is total absorption of dye colors in the bath and then testing the water for pH level. The hair is slowly taken from alkaline from the bleaching to acidic with the dye bath and use of the pH meter informs us if the proper balance has been achieved. Also to achieve wet fastness we use a cationic after treatment which is basically a conditioner bath as this helps lubricate the hair after the chemical application and remove any dye particles that have not penetrated and still laying on top of the fibers.

BLEND

A single batch of hair per color, per length and per texture may contain 1-2 pounds of hair that are blended all together for uniformity.

Inspection Parameters:

  • Donor hair dyes differently so the outcome may result in bundles that are lighter, darker, warmer and ashier.
  • A batch is color checked for acceptable variations
  • Then equally blended together using a hackle and hand technique to ensure blend equality.

 

Quality Control Test:

How do you test for color matching and blend equality?

A master swatch of all our colors are stored in a dark cool locker and used for making production swatch sets. These sets are renewed every 30 days to avoid color fading of working samples. We have found indirect sunlight to be the best light for comparing production swatches against the blended bundles. We check vertically and horizontally to account for light reflection. The roots, middle and ends are compared allowing no more than 1/4 shade differential. Every single bundle is color matched against production swatches to ensure blend equality for entire batch.

DRAW

After blending the hair strands shift up and down, so now we must align the roots so they are flush to the top. This is done by hand using drawing cards to hold the hair.

Inspection Parameters:

Premium hair, Layered hair and Curly hair measurements are rechecked for

  • Length
  • Curl density
  • Short hairs lengths
  • Root alignment

 

Quality Control Test:

How do you measure the difference in Premium, Layered and Curly hair?

All the hair is cuticle Indian Remy hair, the difference is texture and finish.

Premium hair is 70% drawn, so we measure the final length x 70% and make sure there is no shorter lengths of hair less than the calculated amount. We take out even more shorter hair for light blonds.

Layered hair is single drawn, so we make sure there is no shorter hairs less than 6-10" depending upon finished length.

Both Premium and Layered curl density must be less than 3" between waves and measure 0.5" more than final length.

Curly hair is also single drawn as the shorter lengths are needed for the curls, curl density must have a curl pattern of 2" or less along length and measure 1" past finished length when stretched out.

All of these measurements help maintain consistent results that our customers expect when ordering these types of hair.

FINISH

Before we assign the loose bulk hair for making into extensions, each bundle is checked again for tangles, color matching, hair length and texture finish and finally washed, applied with a treatment much like the Ionix Brush UP and dried. Now the bundles are weighed and separated into final extension bundle weight as we make the hair extension bundles by weight and not by number of strands. For example, light blond hair weighs less than dark brown hair, so the volume of blond bundles will be larger than the volume of darker hair colors.

Inspection Parameters:

Final Wet Tangle test, color matching, hair quality check, wet combing, dry brushing, removal of discolored or grey hairs. The hair must not have snagging when running fingers from top to bottom, no breakage when wet or dry, no wet hairs snapping upwards or stretching, no hairs are crinkled and frizzing, no split ends.

Quality Control Test:

How do we perform Wet Tangle Testing?

The most common form of tangling occurs when the roots and ends are accidentally mixed up with each other. This is what is called Non-remy hair that cannot be fixed without harsh acid treatment to remove most of the cuticle layers. This tangling happens because the edges of the cuticles are now catching on each other rather than laying down smoothly like fish scales. Since human error can happen in production, we perform this test every time the hair is handled. Using a bath of shampoo water, we mimic what happens to the hair when washed in the shower or shampoo bowl. The bundles are held by the roots and vigorously rinsed through the bath by swishing the hair back and forth. Then the hair is dipped into a water bath with rinsed in the same manner. If cuticles have accidentally been turned around with roots and ends now at opposite ends, the hair will start to climb up each other creating a tangled knot near the roots that will not come out even with brushing and conditioner.