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A Masterclass with Joanne Morrison Episode 4 (With Unedited Transcript)


0:00 - 5:28: Joanne begins the cylinder extension installation by showing us how to determine where to place the extensions.

5:28 - 13:10: Joanne now begins the process of installing the cylinder extensions and provides the best practices she has developed throughout her time as an extensionist.

13:10 - 17:25: Joanne discusses how to manage client expectations.

17:25 - 22:05: Joanne explains Remy hair and how she overcomes price expectations of her clients.

23:05 - 24:55: Joanne discusses ways to take care of yourself during the long hours involved with hair extension installation.

24:55 - 26:13: Joanne discusses how she determines the cost of a hair extension installation

26:40 - 27:54: Joanne shows us her trick to open a bundle of extensions.

30:13 - 31:39: Joanne discusses how long it normally takes to install extensions, and demonstrates how to re-round a lock.

31:39 - 33:23: Joanne covers hair shedding and what that means for the extensions and the clients hair.

33:23 - 38:25: Joanne discusses why she prefers cylinder extensions and products from Hair & Compounds.

38:25 - 40:03: Joanne discusses the value of truly high quality hair extensions.

40:03 - 41:49: Joanne tells us the ideal state of the clients hair prior to installing the extensions and shows us how to ensure the hair is comfortable for the client.

42:48 - 43:55: Joanne discusses the importance of a placard during the hair extension installation process.

45:02 - 46:07: Outro


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0:00 - 5:28 first thing you want to do is you want to look at the shape of the clients head okay some people the occipital bone really sticks out really portrays you never want to put extensions on the occipital bone when they sleep it will rub when it rubs excessively you could get a bit of breakage it's not comfortable for the client so what I'm doing right now is I'm feeling her hair you bought a look at other things to different people have different scenarios that you have to work around do they have alopecia areata in other words like spots that have slight balding you can't you're going to have to work above that in order to cover it a bit you need to look at how their hair lines are some people are very very fine up in the hairline because you don't want to work directly to the hairline you need to the pieces back so you really need to take a look at all these components wave kollek's I have to look at how the hair grows out of the head Valentina's pretty straight up in terms of her hair just grows straight down from where it comes out at the scalp grows straight down from where it comes out scout there's other clients I could show you that when their hair grows in a different direction you have to work your law in the direction of the growth to work with it as opposed to just going directly down the line but I guess that's another class you never want to get above the parietal bone if the hair is fine which is the side here you want to avoid any colic area you don't want to work around that so we never go too high up in the crown and the only time I go high up on the sides may be in the very very front but you want to look at all these components of how you're gonna it's like a being a dressmaker how you can make your pattern what if you got to work with we're gonna go I'm going to start in the back with Valentina and so just based on the observations of Valentina how do you know where you're gonna place the excisions I know that I can place them all going straight down on the scalp I don't have to worry about any growth direction I know where her occipital bone is right here so we're going to avoid this area when I get in here she has her particular hair gets very fine under the occipital bone so I'm not really sure if I want to go into that yeah I'm gonna start above the occipital bone because of how fine her hair is underneath it and at the end if I feel like it looks too much of a difference I may take some of these slip them in half and that's why I have to glue pot here and the extension iron for the glue I may take some of these and make very tiny pieces cuz I want to put a big this is a large extension I don't want to put that into an area like this that might be too much weight but the density of her hair in that area and when you outweigh the hair it's not good for the clients here so we know we're going to start above her occipital bone I'm going to part just like the basic four quadrant part get some of this hair out of my way you also want good clips a nice strong Clips all your equipment you want there's no such thing as a good cheap equipment really quite frankly if you have cheap clips you'll have little pieces of hair kind of fall out and get in your way cheap combs can get kind of melted under high heat a lot of times you are working with flat irons in this process we don't have to do that right now with Valentina today because her hair is pretty straightforward pretty straight down again feel where you're at with the occipital we're going to start right above give on that your party's clean   refueling this and I'm thinking maybe and this happens sometimes I'm thinking maybe that's a little too close so I'm gonna retard it because I don't feel comfortable there it's not written in stone you don't have to maintain it just because you put in the part always double-check like I just did

5:28 - 13:10 I'm gonna start with my darkest color over here for the bottom line and start with the deeper color and again we are today call it a layer shadow on Bron it's not like a full-on on bro that we're doing right now where it goes super super light at the end slightly routier but we're going for kind of a very natural kind of look a natural kind of blend where it gets progressively lighter so this will give her still some blonder hair and it won't be her hair that's getting colored she's got a little bit of benefit of this color and she'll also get the benefit of when she Styles her hair her hair will hold the curl more she has a very interesting thing that they covered on earlier her hair will not take curl it's very strange but we know what works so I brought like a waving higher which is kind of flat I've done a lot of pictures of Valentina she kinda turned into my muse over time we've done pictures with wigs do you have those on your Instagram I do have those on my Instagram at jomo hair jo M o H a PI R John Moe hair and yeah we've got pictures of her wigs and updos and all sorts of things so I also with these locks flip the locks here the copper locks that I'm putting in preparing compounds I'm going with a dark color I want to blend in with your hair as opposed to blending the copper lock with the color of the hair I want to have real hair to blend into the lock since the locks are lighter than the person's real air then the locks on out if she's like cotton win or you know dancing around it's just better to go with the deeper so I'm starting in the center in the back I'm lucky enough to have long nails where they do allow the work for me or if you kind of separate I'm gonna pull in close I'm here I'm going to get any little flyaway hairs out of the way I do not want to go right up against your scalp with this lock can you see I want to have a little bit of a drop on it because you want the hair to be able to move at the root if it is right up against the scalp when she moves her own hair around when she sleeps on it that can actually cause breakage it's not comfortable and so you want to avoid that here we go take our first extension place it inside wallah I tap down on this make sure I have a little bit of room between the scalp and where the lock is I take my jewelry-making clamp with the thin nose see this is why I like these clamps too can you see how much I can see I'm wearing at something is thicker like this I'll just use this for example I have a hard time seeing where I'm at can you see that so I like to take it a little bit higher voila we have our first one in so I'm just gonna go around and get a bit more of this thing here I'm going to place these next to each other because we have a lot of length more length that you have more extensions that you need you cannot get away with doing 50 pieces of hair on somebody and having long hair at the same time if they do not go together you know like that many bundles bla bla bla but yet you want your hair to be 4 or 5 inches longer than your own hair no you're just gonna have stringing hair makeup you can never cheat on that and people will try to get you to do it and that's where it usually tend to go into the conversation about having your hair look thicker well actually make it look longer give very fine hair just having more density fills it out so this one looks a little higher than that one round a slight incline with the curve so let me ask you have you made any mistakes during an installation in the past that you learned never know I the mistakes that I've had it kind of covered already getting too close to the scalp can be uncomfortable for people and not going with growth direction and again on this particular model I don't have a way of showing you that what about are there any tips tricks or shortcuts that you discovered during your time as an extension having an assistant is a real shortcut which we do hoping up today if you have somebody working next to that can hand you the pieces load your book that's really awesome by the way I should probably show you this while I'm here right now you don't want to take a section that is like double the size you want your pieces to be about the same sizes of a lock does that make sense the same whip I don't want to take something this big and pinch it into a lock you can have your locks spaced apart for Less extensions but you don't want to take a mass of hair from all different directions you want to get it as close to where it rose in order to have the least amount of stress on the hair I think another thing in the beginning before I start mending my own extensions I don't know if I called a mistake or a discovery it took me a while to discover the ability to use the melting pot and the iron and to rebound my own extensions while working on the client that was very important instead of trying to work a really flattened shaped extension that I had been using on the client for say nine it really is empowering

13:10 - 17:25 so let's shift gears for a second towards the client stylist relationship how do you manage expectations well you have to be brutally honest you know you have to do this type of maintenance this upkeep on your extensions and if you're not going to do it you will have problems with the extensions you know there's no woman that has acrylic nails and goes out and gardens seven hours on the weekend without gloves on but you know you can't expect to put the hair under dress and not have it respond that is important they have to realize that they need to come back in when you tell them to come back in they cannot delay an extra two months you have to really do a thermal consultation where you go on into all the details of color texture you have to ask them what they want I mean you can also tell them everything that I'm telling you to tell them but you really have to listen you should have a care package with rules maintenance you should keep a cart file on them where you write down what colors you've used in the past what techniques you've used in the past because sometimes people may switch from this to glue or glue to this but you should keep a running record so you always have all their info available to you so I mean you know with with you describing that have you actually had that experience and is that how you know that you have to get the client to repeat what you're saying yeah so then I don't have unrealistic expectations yeah yeah I really I really you know and it's not just hair extensions it's it's science in general oh you want to be a bleach blonde like super white blonde well this is gonna take a number of times because your hair is in level 2 you're not gonna get there over you really people get their eyes set on what it is they want or maybe they've seen the YouTube video and this girl got there in one session well yeah she was a level seven she was already in there truly dark blonde her hair was fine yeah she she did get the bleach blonde and that stuff just to use as an example people see things and then they kind of envision that's how it's going to be for them that everybody's hair is completely unique everybody's situation is completely unique and if they are not hearing you you need to know you need to know and the reason why I think it's a little bit more important with extensions is because people are dropping a lot of money to get their hair extensions done it's not like a haircut if they're disappointed in something that was expected because they weren't listening you know that's a bigger deal and I think you clarity you know just clarify where you're coming from and what they want and then there's also you know sometimes people want really long hair but when you look at their body then you look at their face it's really just not the best thing for them I think you also have to put your aesthetic in and be like that's not the best name for it you know you're short if your hair is this long you're you're cutting off your figure a bit you're short and you're taking away your waist or whatever you have to kind of let the remind them of how the whole thing will look on them because not everybody you know is a model not everybody has the potential to look the way some people do and I think to be realistic about expectations that vary

17:25 - 22:05 so another big one prices yes you hit on it a little bit before but how do you overcome in price objections with your clients that's a tricky one because actually I honestly feel I've come to the conclusion that there's no way around it because it is a service that that it costs money to do it properly you know what you can buy cheaper hair you can find less quality hair you can go out to allow that these little places and the strip models that offer really cheap hair but they're really not any better off because they have to replace the hair every time it's a lot of times it's not remy hair even though it may be human hair it's been processed with textile dyes let me stop you for a moment and again what is remy hair ah remy hair is when the hair is cut in a ponytail when it's collected off the person and the cuticles would just outermost layer of the hair the cuticle all faces the same way the reason why it's important for the cuticle to face the same way is that the cuticle it's almost like fish-scale imprecations on the outer layer of the hair and so if you have one strand of hair the cuticles facing down and the other strand that's facing up the hair will snarl on itself so it all needs to be facing the same way hair is stronger and healthier when it has a cuticle on it so remy hair has it's been collected in a way that it's full cuticle and it has more strength you want to make sure that the hair is not been colored with textile dyes textile dyes color everything from upholstery on your couch to drapes it's not really designed for hair I think it's used because it's cheap and it doesn't fade but it's not the best way to go about coloring the hair so you can get cheaper hair that is non remy you can get cheaper hair than Paula mirrors on it but you know but you know you give it a few shampoos and it doesn't look good it turns into like Barbie hair doll hair though you can't compromise on the integrity of the hair by using a cheaper price line and I have also found when I've given people deals in the past it's never really appreciated in the long run they just kind of come to expect it from you and this is a process that can take many hours if you're doing a lot of extensions and you have to think about how many hours you're on your feet and how it is on your shoulders and what you're giving up in order to give this service you can't give yourself away and you can't use cheap hair and if people want it done that way then really do you want that representing your work do you want that representing your integrity I don't personally if somebody's hair looks awful and they go oh yeah I go to her you know it's good you don't want it that happens but I don't really think you can compromise too much on the price but the way in which this method does compromise or not compromise the way this method works to help me with my clients is the quality of the hair is so good and because we are not gluing this onto the hair we can reuse this hair again and again and again because when she comes in to move it up all we're gonna do is pop this open clean out the shutted hair place it back in and loop it back up clamp it back down and the quality of this hair is so good that I've had people that have to sit here for a year and a half and have not had to turn around buy new hair and it has ended up being an hourly move up charge so we've got this one aside in so far and you know what I was talking about earlier is you know people that don't want to buy many but have a lot of lengths could you mention that was it and we pulled the rest of her hair down you've got that hanging out you simply can't do it when you're going longer you have to put it so there's like

can I turn Valentina here a little bit more towards me would that be okay I'm right-handed so I have to work from the right side you know I was saying something earlier about the table this being such a nice big table most salons don't have this available to you when I work in my salon space I usually am using two trays or when they work in Chicago I've got two trays available to me I work in both Chicago and Los Angeles and in LA I have a nice big station and I utilize my station for the things that don't need backup and I just kind of put the bare basics on the tray but working off with this makes me kind of minute bold and in the system right what are you doing so yeah we're just

23:05 - 24:55 so now you've been on your feet for some time at home any tips to keep in shape during the long hours that many abstention his face you know I think with like a lot of things it's how you take care of your health good shoes I never understood the high-heeled hairdresser god bless embed button aliy I can't do that you can see I have very comfortable boots on it's a little chilly in LA today so I tend to keep the boots a little flatter but the maintenance that I do is I do do yoga I also do Pilates and gyro tonics these are forms of workout that actually stretch your body out instead of tightening and bulking they tend to stretch you a little bit for years I didn't do and it has really helped me to maintain myself in the time that I'm not working you know if I've had a hard work day and I go to a yoga class afterwards I feel amazing and it's really you know just like eating right during the work day you can't like snack on candy and Cheetos and think you're gonna make it through eight hours so I think it's really important to take care of you know eat right absolutely to do exercises that help you maintain your stature and for me comfortable shoes

24:55 - 26:13 so I do want to say for those who are chiming in to our live feed if you have any questions please leave them in the comments we will ask Joanna I believe we do have a question coming in from Facebook oh nice do you charge by the amount of bundle slash hair installation or by the hour or both Oh especially lift this technique by the way I'll explain I just want to show you guys I ran out of my extensions here so I'm going back in lifting the book and spacing these extensions apart but to get back to your question and then I'll put the book back down on the extensions to hold it in place but you don't want to put them too close together because then otherwise they'll pull on each nothing I know kind of have a mess I'd rather reload often you have to charge both by the hour and board the hair there are two different things hair is expensive you have to charge for that you also have to charge for your time when they come back in or the maintenance we then just charge them by the hour let's they've already paid for the hair and that's that's a huge plus

when people call in or I have questions from Facebook can you see where they're from yes those who are tuning in if you wouldn't mind just leaving in the comments where you're tuning in from and again if you have any questions please let us know

26:40 - 27:54 so I actually should have shown you this getting the bundle on raft I tend to go from the bottom and unwind it can get tingly and if you hit a tangle sometimes I've had to to cut these open so I'm going to show you how to do that so you don't cut the hair you have to really and you never use your hair scissors you have to really bend the hair to separate the rope from the hair if you don't want to dig into this and then cut the hair that's odd but you really have to bend it back over your thinker kind of get it through and then I continue to unravel those out of my way and that was what you know when you asked about mistakes I made when I was starting out Baptists one not bending the rope back before a slice because of you rule in the hair you're just gonna have to eat that cost you can't pass that around

alright got my book back in place that means I can pull these out individually so I'm back to this I kind of dropped this one up because I was busy here Valentina has a little bit of static electricity in her hair today but I don't want to put product on it because I don't want to make her hair slick or create any kind of residue on the hair that could cause the extension to slide out so when we're dealing with something like that and I don't know if you can see it from the camera perspective but we have a few pieces here you can always take this lip in and this is why I've worked with so many Clips around Abel and get that out of the way you know for Clips for the four sections but you may need some extra ones and again good clips cheap clip stubborn these people calling in are they currently doing extensions or are they interested in getting into it what's so those of you who are tuning in to the live feed right now if you could just let us know if you are currently doing extensions or if extensions are something you're interested in Oh or if there's any questions that you have about join process again she is installing the cylinder extensions that are also known as IQ again keeping consistent keeping it to within the lock shaggy hair so how on average how long does an installation take depends on how many

30:13 - 31:39 okay so this is a good example it depends on how much I'm putting in for long hair if I am i thickening it I'll have less because they'll be shorter pieces if I'm doing it longer like I am today can take a few hours okay with this I clamp down and I didn't have that all the way so this is perfect this I didn't have the extension all the way into the lock so this is a perfect place for me to show you how this piece of equipment works where I take it can you see and I put it into the larger hole and that just rear ound it this piece I'm gonna take that out and this is how you move them up you know just pretend this is been going you know eight weeks later and do it again I'm gonna have to real a CH this because she has a lot of little hairs here and will get kind of fuzzy so I'm just gonna take it and a person called in or communicated earlier about replacing locks this lock I'm using the same lock but you can see how quick that is you know we're not breaking down blue components you know it's just in and out

33:23 - 38:25 I think it's also good to address extensions that shed because extensions do shed just like you know you can lose an acrylic nail just like you could you know shed your own hair sometimes they do shed and what I like about this technique is one and it's not like it's shedding like in masses you know you may lose one or two but what I like about it is that when it is shedding it's not beating up the regular hair it just kind of slowly comes out it's not hard on the hair and turn different things can cause it to slip if you're putting a conditioner at the root you don't want to do that you must tell your clients to not condition it at the root do not use silicone base products at through because it will make it slide because it is like an oil it is something that creates slide so you don't want them to do that you want to keep it off the root and you also when they are brushing their hair you want them to hold their hair into a bundle and brush from the fists down you don't want somebody to take a brush and start treating it like it's its own hair because if you hit any snags you're gonna pull on these you're gonna pull on everything but if you have it in your hand in your fist and you're brushing through if there's any snags it's being prevented from pulling it the lock by your own hand that's very important and so again now I know you you're capable of doing multiple types of application methods but again why is it that you prefer a cylinder I like cylinder because the hairs find it to be economical I did more techniques for people before the 2008 housing collapse actually I had to kind of adjust because we were in an economic downturn and it was a way of making it a little more affordable I wasn't buying new hair every time which means clients buying new hair every time actually so I and then I just slowly really began to fall in love with it and yeah it's worked very nicely I've also stated that a lot of my clients are people that have thin hair thinning issues I don't have a ton of people who go for a lot of extra lengths I do have people that want extra fullness and they're doing it because they're really unhappy but own hair books they're not doing it for fashion statement so it's a little more imperative to them it's something that they work into their budget it's something you know that they instead going out and buying new pair of shoes they're maintaining their hair you know if it comes down between one and the other again I just found this nothing to be very economical compared to other methods and again it's not just the method it is the product because you can get this method but it's all about the hair the quality of the hair and that you know comes from many different directions it comes from how is the hair harvested this company eric compounds has their own Factory in India so they have their thumb right on it from the beginning they're not going to you know bazaars and buying bags of hair they are right in at the very beginning when it gets here to their space in Los Angeles they go through every single hair Diana goes through every single hair she checks for everything checks for you know the shine she washes it you know checks for tangles checks for the word elasticity is the word I'm looking for then they put it through many tests so this isn't going through the cheap fast route this is coming from a company has its own factory and has its own set of standards and if reprocessing of bleaching up so on and so forth it doesn't make it it doesn't make it on the floor here it does not make it on the floor here after I found this company in the early 2000s I quit going to other places you know I did once out of a last minute opportunity to work on somebody and what kind of experience did you have here like wait what did the hair what it is you're gonna be a friendly before you've heard like when you it's became very strong work and what first appeared to be wave ended up being just kind of bad you know it just and it wasn't long hair it was like a shorter funky shag tie to cut like mine where it could be a mess but it didn't work it just did so you want to go with a you know something a product that has the integrity it's gonna work for your client that's fine stability right there if you're getting inconsistent quality companies if you're getting for example as talking earlier about how eyeshadows this hair if you are getting cheaper hair that's been colored but textile dyes you can't you can't change in color you cannot change the color because it's been colored with textile dyes and nothing's going to break through that so there's a lot of options in working with better it saves you

38:25 - 40:03 when it comes to good quality hair extensions what are some things that you can only get from really good quality on say you can't longevity longevity the fact that I can chew you know if she wore these straight for a year and a half they post elaborately great you know as long as she maintains them and is going against the wishes you know not going to bed with her hair what that's a huge one folks do not go to bed with wet hair with extensions you just can't do that you shouldn't do it with your own hair but really don't do it with extensions but yeah longevity and also just the way it looks you know cheap hair doesn't look like real hair it made for the first six weeks and then it starts to go strong and you know that's you know if you want to work with temporary pieces or a photo shoot and you're just popping something in on somebody's head that you'll never see you again you know and you're just doing it because you're doing commercial photo shoot which I've done before cheap hair is fine you don't want to spend a lot of money on that because you know you're matching it to somebody you're never gonna see again they're not a regular client well if somebody's wearing something day in and day out you know there's going to be wear and tear on it so you better start in a healthier place

40:03 - 41:49 so before the extensions are installed is there a certain state that clients hair before the end clean dry hair we want to have a color before we do the extensions I don't want to put the extensions in and they color her hair two days later I would rather have it done beforehand because if you have roots on somebody's hair and then you move the extensions up what are you moving those extensions into you might be moving it into a line of gray and then you've got this much hair that's going to have gray under the lock and so then when you move that up then you're gonna have this little line so it's always good to do it beforehand it's also easier to get to because it's a little further out so valentina how does this feel - so far I joined me feeling here I don't feel any pettiness okay so there's nothing pulling another little trick that you can do is twirl on the hair to see how much movement that you've got away from the scalp because we don't want to get right on the scalp you can also run your finger underneath to see if anything sticking you'll feel a loop going between these pieces can you see what I'm doing let me come around to the side instead and if there was a move here you would feel it she would feel it but I can get my finger through and all this which means we don't have random hair so that's our first row

and we're going to move up from this point now when I move up on this row I'm going to start to add in some of the shadowed blu-bib hair but before we do that I'm going to trip on the tablecloth and after a trip on the tablecloth I'm going to just lay out a few more pieces here to have them ready for the next row and so adding in the shadowed hair is going to put some more blonde now clients may also talk about you know the first night that they get their hair done like because it's something new on their head they may be like it feels heavy you're you know it just feels a little weird you can say go ahead and take an aspirin when you before you go to sleep or an Advil it's just them adjusting to it it's you know you can totally do that if they're experiencing some heaviness or a little bit of

42:48 - 43:55 C instead of pulling one I pulled a couple it just nodded about one which is why we have this thing right and what is that you're using this is a placard and it separates I might have to get in a little closer it separates the hair so when you pull through you're getting one piece I cannot lay these down and upon like this on the table and pull from them without doing what I just did or I created that not there this placard has little wires in it the face of a particular direction and in that direction it kind of calms the hair through the process it just kind of comes out some people put the placards together and feel like that's a little more attention than what I need I just like to rest the book on top of it separately or in this case

alright so I'm going to go back to the center of the head and work on the next row up sometimes people will take a little gap in between the rows because we started so high up because of the location of her occipital bone and because of the finest underneath the occipital bone I want to get more hair in they say the fineness of the occipital the fineness of the hair underneath the occipital bone so I'm gonna go right up looking at her hair here I do believe that what we're done I am going to go under the occipital bone and do what I suggested earlier which is break apart some days and make smaller pieces to get in because her hair so fine underneath that area I don't want to put too much weight

45:02 - 46:07 so for those of you who are tuning in we're in house here at hearing compounds with Jo and Morrison and she is installing cylinder extensions and we're gonna actually take a break out for a moment and let her trying to get caught up with some of the extensions that she's installing and then we'll return to the live video when she comes back into more of the completed project and then if you do have questions be sure to save them until then and we'll be back shortly bye hi YouTube family thank you for watching we hope that you enjoyed our video today subscribe to our YouTube channel for more videos like this and the latest updates in the hair extensions industry we'd also love to hear what you learned from the video today please leave your comments below and we'll see you soon