Building A Better Hair Extension

May 18th, 2009

Science and innovation are at the heart of everything we do at Hair & Compounds. We take research very seriously and are constantly looking for ways to improve our hair extensions – including the application process. This summer, we are collaborating with a leading research company to develop innovative solutions for the hair extension industry. We have enlisted the help of a dedicated research team committed to finding ways to optimize the hair extension application process and increase reusability.

We’re kicking off the project at the end of May with an immersion session at our office. Over the course of a few days, we will meet with the research team and educate them on our hair extension manufacturing, testing and quality control processes. We will tour them through our on-site lab and warehouse and basically talk at length (no pun intended!) about all things related to hair extensions. Most importantly we will spend time outlining our innovation objectives to ensure everyone is focused in the right area. After the session at our office, the team will develop the research methodology, conduct lab testing for several months and come back to us with findings/recommendations.

We believe these types of investments will help advance the category and enable us to continue delivering the highest quality hair extensions in the industry. We look forward to sharing the results of this research effort at the end of the year.

How to test if the hair extensions are human or synthetic

February 19th, 2009

Customer: “Is there a way to test the hair to see if it is actually real human hair or a synthetic fiber?”

Answer:
We often get this question and this is how you can conduct your own test. It is not necessary to conduct a microscopic analyzation to find out what type of fiber the hair extension or hair piece contains. Often a simple burn test will reveal the type of fiber.

In the textile industry it is often required to know how to conduct a fiber burn test to identify the content. The same tests can be done on hair.

1. Remove single strands of hair from different areas of the questionable unit.

2. Hold a single strand with tweezers and use a lighter to keep a steady flame. Do not use matches as they will mask the odor.

3. Pay attention to the odor, ember and flame.

Human hair is a protein fiber that burns with a small flickering flame and will not continue to burn unless you hold the flame continuously to the strand. It burns briefly with an orange flame and then chars leaving a dark ash that turns to powder when crushed. The odor is of burning hair or burning feathers.

Synthetic fibers are either nylon or polyester and each burns quite differently.

Nylon fibers burn rapidly but briefly and then melts. It has a sparkling flame that has a blue base and orange tip. The ash is like hard amber beads. The odor smells like boiling green vegetables (burning celery).

Polyester fibers melt and burn rapidly at the same time. It has an orange sputtery flame with black smoke and gives off a sweetish odor. The ash drips and is sticky to the touch before forming into hard black beads.

Remember to burn test each fiber seperately as your piece may contain a blend of both human hair and synthetic.

eXtensions: The official guide to hair extensions

February 5th, 2009

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Author: Theresa Bullock

This amazing book was recommended to us by one of our customers, Joanne Morrison, an excellent stylist and fantastic woman. After finding it on Amazon we purchased it immediately based on the quick description. After receiving it we discovered just how great this book is for anyone that does hair extensions or is thinking of offering hair extension services. It is well organized, detailed in content and generous in critical information.

Here is a summary of the contents:
1 The hair extension service
2 Preparing for the hair extension service (very important)
3 Tools and products
4 Hair extension appointment times
5 Client consultations (Critical – she even gives a form example!)
6 The hair (Excellent advise)
7 Planning the application of an extension hairstyle (Brilliant!)
8 The application of hair extensions (detailed instructions, photos and diagrams)
9 Client aftercare and homecare procedures
10 Removing hair extensions

We highly recommend this book!!

New Poly Remover, hair extensions remover

January 21st, 2009

premover

· No Acetone!

· No Ethyl Acetate!

· No Harsh Odor!

· Cruelty Free!

· New Dauber Applicator!

The Poly Remover is gentle, non-drying, moisturizing and made with all organic ingredients. Smells like vanilla!

Our new and greatly improved Poly Remover is easier to use, faster at dissolving any polyamide bonds and is NOT acetone or high percentage alcohol. The dauber applicator makes it simple to dab remover directly onto the bond, crack it with pliers and remove completely a few moments later.

Dyeing the Hair Extensions

December 24th, 2008

Customer: “Can we dye the hair?”

Answer:
If the hair is our Russian virgin hair extensions then it is possible to bleach, highlight and dye the hair, but you run the risk of drying out the hair. Remember this is cut hair which begins losing its moisture rapidly. It reacts differently than scalp hair so usual recipes may give different results.
If the hair is our custom European hair extensions or our Indian Remy hair extensions then it is only possible to dye to a darker color. Most likely we have already bleached and/or dyed the hair. We use permanent fiber dyes that cannot be easily removed and stains the hair in such a way that makes removal and fading very difficult. If you try to highlight or bleach the resulting color will be stained and uneven. Unless the hair is a “bleach” color. Our color ring contains 7 bleach colors that we do not dye so the hair can be highlighted, bleached and/or dyed.

Additional details:

Russian Virgin Hair: This hair type can be bleached, colored and permed but contains the same risks as chemically treating normal scalp hair. Since this is cut hair its moisture levels are lower than scalp hair and may react differently to chemicals. Your risk is that the hair will tangle.

European Hair: This hair type may be a mix of various hair that was bleached, dyed and/or blended to obtain a custom color and texture match (all textures are 100% natural). It is advisable not to highlight, tint, dye, perm or apply any other type of chemical process since it is likely the hair has already been treated.

“Bleach” colors do not have any dye deposits. Only this type of hair can be easily highlighted, tinted and dyed. We strongly advise against further chemical treatments on light blonds. Your risk is damaging the integrity of the hair beyond repair.

Indian Hair: This hair type may be a mix of various hair that was bleached, dyed and/or blended to obtain a custom color and texture match (all textures are 100% natural). It is advisable not to highlight, tint, dye, perm or apply any other type of chemical process since it is likely the hair has already been treated.

“Bleach” colors do not have any dye deposits. Only this type of hair can be easily highlighted, tinted and dyed. We strongly advise against further chemical treatments on light blonds. Your risk is damaging the integrity of the hair beyond repair.

Cuticle Free (non-cuticle) Hair: We strongly advise against any and all chemical treatments. This hair type has the most chemical processes applied upon it and will react negatively with additional treatments. Your risk is damaging the integrity of the hair beyond repair.

With any of the above hair types please conduct a strand test. Every group, batch or order of hair may be from a single donor or a combination of donors. The donor’s environment, diet, weathering and maintenance affect the performance of the hair long after it was cut and manufactured.

Layered Hair Extensions

December 10th, 2008

Customer: “I’m confused. I’m looking at the Layered hair and it is very thin. How many extensions would I need to use? I currently use only 160 strands for a full head but the extensions I have used from another company are much thicker than these.

Answer: The Layered hair extensions are made with single drawn hair creating full strands at the root with tapered ends. During manufacturing we take the raw hair and only clean out the top 6-8″ of short hairs and then leave the bundle as it was naturally grown.

You need an average of 150-200 strands of large density tips for a full head. So the quantity is the same as you apply from the other company. You will always want about 6 bundles for a full head.

The Layered hair extensions are perfect for adding fullness and no more than 4 inches of length. If you want to add more length than fullness our Premium hair extension line would be more appropriate.

Here is a photo of our Layered hair:

Russian, Indian Remy or European Hair Extensions

December 4th, 2008

Customer: “I wanted to clarify some information regarding your products. I noticed you sell Russian virgin and Indian Remy hair. I also noticed at another point on the site you said you sold European hair. Do you sell Indian hair that is European Grade or actual European hair?”

Answer:

Indian Remy hair – We manufacture this hair type in pretipped extensions and ready made weft extensions. We manufacture this hair through our Indian factory. Our premium line is Indian hair but called European grade.

Russian virgin hair – We manufacture this hair type as pretipped extensions, raw hair by the kilo and for custom hair orders either loose or in hand-tied weft extensions. We collect this hair in Ukraine, prepare it in our US production warehouse and then send it to our Indian factory to be made into pretipped hair extensions.

European hair – This is grade B Russian hair that we bleach and dye for custom European hair orders made either loose or in hand-tied weft extensions. We collect this hair in Ukraine and manufacture our custom hair orders only in our US production warehouse.

Only foreigners are doing Yoga in India

November 17th, 2008

Yesterday, I had a lunch in the Taj hotel in Chennai (Madras) and enjoyed fresh Mackerel wrapped in banana leaves. What a dish! If I would enjoy half of my time here as I enjoyed this meal, I would run to the local ministry of internal affairs and apply for an Indian passport. You have to redefine your definition of good food after leaving this country.

India is one of the countries where hotels prove to you that they still know how to do certain things other than charging high prices. Cooking is one instance. Service with good intentions is another one. And I’m putting a lot of emphasis on the good intentions because their disorganization skills will drive you crazy. In principle, people are good hearted here and willing to do on a regular basis many of the things that we forgot in the West.

The Taj is owned by the largest company in India. They have over 10 hotels in India, all of which are very impressive, expensive and designed with good taste. In Mumbai (Bombay) you will have to pay $500 per day for a basic room in their flag ship hotel. Then you step outside to the beach that is only 100 yards away from the hotel’s entrance and see all the poverty. There are so many stark contrasts in this country.

My lunch is finished and now back to work.

One of my biggest problem that I have since the beginning is achieving a low breakeven analysis but very high fixed cost per product. One way is to reduce expenses, but since they are low already the other factor of this equation forces me to increase number of kilos per month. This is a known factor but we don’t know how to do it and this is why I’m here again only 2 months after my last visit.

In order to succeed this time I decided to conduct the micromanagement myself. Which means I must approve all the daily schedules, assign the tasks to the production employees as well as to my managers, supervising the execution of the tasks and applications on an hourly basis, collect data during lunch time instead of only by the end of the day, trying to understand the reasons for running late (due to employee performance or bad production planning due to error in collecting and analyzing previous data), reading and analyzing reports and preparing new instructions and Correction Plans (CP is the most popular term in my factory). Then I have to change and update the drafts of the company’s business/strategic plan which results in changing the business model.

All the time I feel that I am getting closer to what I envision and expected this company to be. Then I remember that India is one of those rare places where you may find yourself getting closer while you are actually drifting away from your point of destination.

In order to prepare mentally, to withstand the amazingly high humidity (85%-90% humidity and 105 F-115 F temperature), I decided to come to the office with a very simple and light T-shirt, shorts and sandals. 3 hours into the work day, I was outside of my cool office, at the administrative section when my 11:00 AM meeting showed up only 50 minutes late. I approached him together with my loyal assistant, Ganesan (One of the Indian Gods). I asked the guy for his name and he replied to Ganesan while completely ignoring me. It seems like my clothes are so poor he decided that I’m just another production employee. I forgot that in the south of India people will judge other people by the way they dress.

End of day I return to my hotel. And no it is not the Taj. I have a meeting with my new Yoga instructor. Yoga is one of the most accurate and detailed systems that I know for “personal growth”. One day I asked my managers if they practice Yoga and then noticed some hesitation among them until Ganesan, who has been my loyal employee since day one in India, had the courage to tell me “No sir.” with a smile on his face “Only foreigners are doing Yoga in India”.

Color Matching

November 10th, 2008

Color matching for custom blends is an issue with quite a lot of obstacles. When a prospective client comes to your salon for a new hair system the technician will either clip a tiny sample of hair from the client’s head or they will try to match the color of the client’s hair using a color ring.

The main problem with color matching is the lighting conditions in a closed room. I know there are “rumors” of special halogen bulbs that are capable of mimicking natural light. You have the option of making a nice investment and replacing all your bulbs. I consider this a MAJOR MISTAKE! Stick with natural light. It’s affordable and accurate. If you have a window or access to sunlight in your establishment, use it. Don’t hesitate to walk outside. Make sure you are not standing directly under the harsh glare of the sunrays or you will see too much gold and red. Instead go 2-3 feet into a shaded area for indirect light. Don’t forget to take with you both the color ring and your client’s head (make sure that the body is attached) and then choose the right color from the color ring.

Several years ago we tested a few different systems for the blending department in my company. One system was an advanced light box with 3 different types of light sources in 3 different wavelengths. The mixture of the 3 lights was supposed to generate the closest possible to natural light. Considering the low price of the unit ($2,500), I tried to convince myself that it posed a reasonable solution. I stopped deluding myself. Then I tested a $15,000 computer system that has a small but accurate scanner accompanied by a small source of light. The technician scans the sample of hair and generates a reading such as: 77% Yellow, 19% Blue and 4% Red. But I would have to run a test on the initial sample that the client sent to me and another one on the hair that we blended and then to add or remove according to the results. You try to explain to your production employees that they must blend in another 14% of blue, 3% red and deduct 5% yellow! The main problem with this system is that the small source of light was inaccurate and the manufacturer admitted it was a feature that still required research.

In most cases, a very small sample of the client’s real hair is taken for color matching. These samples are usually so small that it would be better if we call the client and ask for a description of the color and just ignore the sample. A small sample of 10 strands does not tell the whole story of the client’s hair color.

Then there is the issue of where the sample originated. Another problem of which at times can be even more complicated than the small clipping, especially if the sample is taken 1” to 1.5” from the ends of hair. The ends are usually much lighter, up to 1 level or more, than in the center or root of the hair strand. The sample that you are sending to your supplier for color matching can be misleading and the hair system will not match the client’s total hair color. The best policy will be to clip a nice sized sample even if the client is screaming that you are taking the last of his hair. Try taking small amounts from several different areas and not only the roots. Don’t keep human hair samples on file for more than 1 year as they oxidize, even inside a sealed envelope. After the first 6 months, I suggest to check the sample on file against the customer’s color to verify the match. Unfortunately, most of us are getting older and colors can change every month.

Copper Rings

September 25th, 2008

We have revamped our copper ring line, added 3 new colors and 1 new size. Here are the details:

What was once size large is now extra large. This will soon be a discontinued item since the size is much too large to use with our Cylinder hair extensions.

What was once size medium is now size large. Why? Because it was too confusing to order the Cylinder extensions and then the coordinating copper ring size. So now when you order small tip cylinder extensions you order small size copper rings. When ordering large tip cylinder extensions you order large size copper rings.

We have also added a new size we call “intermediate”. It is for the small tip extensions and you would order these if you prefer a looser fit. Sometimes our small tip extensions fit tightly into the small copper rings and some stylists prefer to have a little more space for their client’s hair.

The 3 new colors: Ash brown, Tan and Mid brown. These are all neutral to ash colors. Until now many of our colors were too warm and we were missing some in between shades. These new colors will make a nice addition to the line.

As of today, Sept 25th 08, we mailed out new samples sheets to all current copper ring customers. Email us if you would like to receive the new sample sheet if you haven’t received one yet.