A common question we receive regarding our custom European non-cuticle hair is if it truly has no cuticles. The process for removing cuticles is commonly done using harsh acidic chemicals that strip the hair of its cuticle layer often leaving dry lifeless strands that do not look or feel like normal human hair. We actually see many of the long hair extensions in the market, imported from China, made with human hair that has been chemically stripped. The way this hair moves, feels and reflects light makes it look almost like synthetic hair.

The cuticle layer is a chemically resistant area surrounding the cortex that is about 5-10 cuticle scales thick. We process our non-cuticle human hair using an alkaline solution that only removes the top few layers of cuticles and fuses the remaining layers together. This keeps the hair from losing all of its integrity without sacrificing the advantage of tangle free hair. Our European hair is processed for customers that are sending the hair to wig factories for either a full wig or a hair piece so they do have to worry about reversing hair strands. It is completely unnecessary to remove cuticles for hair extensions, whether pre-bonded or wefted hair extensions, if the manufacture is careful and handles the hair correctly.

So when you are ordering our stocked hair extensions, the micro ring extensions/fusion extensions/wefted extensions, you are receiving normal healthy cuticle human hair. Even if you order the custom European hand tied weft hair extensions, we use only our cuticle intact European hair. If you plan to have a custom lace front wig or small hair piece made by another company, only then do you consider the non-cuticle European hair.  

Remy is one of those terms that have changed with the progression of the hair extension and hair replacement market. Once upon a time, remy hair just meant that the roots were together at the top of the bundle and the cuticles are running in the same direction to avoid tangling. If you have the cuticle scales facing different directions then the hair tangles severely. Since tangling is an obvious bad situation for the hair it carries the connotation of poor quality.

Remy hair soon became a term to describe the quality of the hair and not necessarily the true state in which the hair was kept. It did not take long for the term remy to progress into a type of brand descriptor. If the label states “100% Remy” then the customer was assured of its good quality and the best hair on the market. Unfortunately, since most did not really understand what the term meant, except it was supposed to mean the best quality of hair, many distributors and manufacturers abused the term. Today if you want real hair extensions then you know to look for 100% Remy hair. The fact is that this is very true. You do want 100% Remy hair because it behaves like normal scalp hair and does not require washing in acid to strip non-remy hair. Unfortunately though, not very many companies truly sell 100% Remy hair because it is not only expensive raw hair but very expensive to manufacture. Real human hair or real hair extensions that are properly kept in the Remy state are also very expensive for the consumer and cannot be purchased in a beauty supply for 50 dollars. If the hair is truly 100% remy, it is a worthwhile investment.

All of our hair, whether Indian or Russian, is hand-picked 100% Remy human hair. Each raw bundle of hair is inspected for texture, body, length, cuticle direction and health. How the hair feels and looks, even in raw form, tells us how it will respond to bleaching, dyeing and blending. We are careful to exclude hair that has been heavily weathered, chemically processed, henna stains, thick and wiry or in general the hair looks too weak and fine.

After selecting the best raw human hair we perform all manufacturing stages ourselves. We have our own factory in southern India, called Different Hair Pvt. Ltd, in which we produce all our pretipped hair extensions, hair wefts, hair color rings and we send our Russian hair for assembling into fusion hair extensions and/or micro ring hair extensions. Each stage of human hair processing is handled bundle by bundle with detail to maintaining the hair’s quality and integrity. Our detailed quality control standards are what help us achieve shiny soft pale blonds, vibrant red tones, rich natural shades and natural looking ash colors. No pink hair, no green hair or those pesky thick black strands of hair.

We keep the natural texture of the hair and let every single hair bundle dry naturally. What you see is what you get when opening the package of hair extensions. We do not chemically alter the texture or even apply steam for curl. The natural curly hair extensions are truly authentic natural curly hair, with all advantages and disadvantages of a full head of curly hair.

The different types or grades of hair we offer do not mean the quality is diminished. It just means we have different ways of handling the bundles of hair in preparation for making into hair extensions. For example, Layered hair extensions cost less than the Premium hair extensions but that does not mean the hair quality is reduced for the Layered lines. It can take up to 5 kilos of raw hair to make 1 kilo of Premium finished hair extensions. With the single drawn hair, it takes 3 kilos of raw hair to make 1 kilo of Layered finished hair extensions. Therefore, our costs are reduced and we can offer an alternative hair extension. The same type of raw hair is used for both lines, but we remove a higher quantity of short hairs for the Premium hair for fuller ends.

So whether it is in selecting raw human hair or producing finished extensions, we have years of experience. Hair & Compounds is a hair manufacturer for the film industry, hair replacement and beauty salons. See our film projects to view just a fraction of the movie projects that we have supplied hair and hair extensions. The high quality of our hair, our hair extension care products are all a result of the training and research our staff has received with regards to human hair and related applied sciences.

Does the hair

come from

dead people?? 

This is one of my top favorite questions about the origins of our hair. Or perhaps they are questioning our collection methods of the elusive Russian or Eastern European Caucasian virgin hair? By now, most people are educated about the origins of Indian hair and the temple customs of a people that sacrifice their beauty. But when it comes to Caucasian hair and its country status we still get that whispered question. I can practically see their imagination running with images of secret hair collectors dressed in black, sharp shears in hand sneaking into cemeteries.

 Hair collecting is actually much more mundane. Local beauty salons post a sign offering money for hair, which is freshly cut from a woman who is willing to trade for about a month’s income, and when the salon has collected a few ponytails they call a known contact that then comes out and buys the lot. They in turn sell to an exporter and these ponytails make their way to hair importers or hair extension suppliers.

 It is true that we occasionally get an “old” ponytail. Meaning the hair is dry and musty and usually ends up tossed in the garbage. This means that someone’s grandmother cut their hair, wrapped it up in ribbons and a satchel and saved it in a drawer for a couple decades. In tough times with people offering to buy hair, this must seem like a great time to sell grandmother’s hair.

 In theUS, it has become common to donate one’s hair, in excess of a foot of healthy growth, to several non-profit organizations that provide wigs for cancer patients. So the practice of donating, either for cash or charity, is not as morbid as some imagine.

Having a professionally trained stylist knowledgeable in the art of hair styles and general scalp and hair health is vital for the installation of extensions. So why do we not require stylist to train and then give certification to buy our hair extensions?

Our hair extensions are a recent product of our company. For more than a decade, we supplied custom hair orders of European and Russian hair for wigmakers and hair stylists. We are well known in the film and TV industry for supplying high quality hair. With the increasing demand for individual hair strand extensions we decided to enter the larger hair extension market. So many stylists loved our hair but wanted the advantage and ease of pretipped hair extensions.

After consulting with many stylists throughout the world, the chief complaint we heard was the requirement of certification. A stylist wanted to add hair extension services to their menu so would sign up for training with a company. After paying out $3,000-$5,000 in training and equipment the stylist was now certified and qualified to order hair extensions from same company. But what happened if the stylist was unhappy with the product or company and were struggling with their new customers? Now they search for another hair extension supplier and again must pay out for training and equipment even if it is the same kind of training.

This scenario was often repeated for many stylists that really could not afford to keep paying for training yet struggled to find the right hair extension supplier. We heard and understood the problem and made the decision to offer our products without ANY money up front, except for the color ring. We do require registration and proof of a current license with free sign up and no minimums. We are very strict about not selling or disclosing information to the unlicensed public.

This is not to say that training is not important for the installation of hair extensions. Strand by strand hair extensions are stressfull to the hair and scalp and must be installed correctly and according to the client’s health followed by style. Proper training is vital in the hair extension industry and classes can often be found for a reasonable fee. Certification can be an advantage but it is just not our policy.

One of our clients’ frequently asked questions is “What can I do for customers that complain their hair color is fading and dulling?” It is normal that after a few months your client may experience color fading depending on how many times a week they wash their hair. This is especially true of red and ash tones. The dyes we use are permanent pre-metalized fiber dyes we import from Switzerland. They give the best color range, permanence and shine, but like any fabric they will fade with multiple washing and styling. It usually takes a few months for the fading to occur, but your clients will want that brand-new-hair look at all times.

I spoke with several hair extension stylists and many say they perform cellophane treatments for a quick color boost that greatly adds shine. You can schedule your customers for a 15-minute color and shine appointment. This quick boost will hold your client over the holidays and add extra “up-service” dollars for you. Cellophane treatments are fast, easy, ammonia-free and do not damage the hair extensions if applied carefully. The process will add color and shine, extending the look of your client’s hair and hair extensions.

One important recommendation: avoid the attachment area on both Poly and Cylinder hair extensions. The copper rings will catch and hold any liquids for a long period of time and can be difficult to rinse out any chemical residues. Chemicals applied on top of any type of fusion adhesive can cause a softening of the bonds. Keep 1-2 inches from the attachment point as wet hair will absorb the dye quickly and spread up into the bonds if you are too close.

Remember that we have bins full of very short hair that are great for experimenting. If you want to try out new products for color or curl to see how they react on our hair extensions please call or email us with your request. We can supply you with some free hair and hopefully you will share your results with us – good or bad.

- Elizabeth, co-founder and Director of Operations for Hair & Compounds.

All hair extension bonds are formulated based on polyamide thermoplastics. One type of Polyamide is a man-made nylon material known for its extreme durability and strength. If formulated correctly for long lasting hold, the removal of hair extensions can be very difficult without causing damage to the hair. The objective is to break down the bond so it can be easily removed. Most often this cannot happen in one step. The bonds must be cracked or softened and then it will absorb the removing solution. Usually the best combination is heat and solvent or heat and oil.

Usually cracking the bond with pliers and dabbing with Poly Remover will be effective enough to easily remove all bonds. If the bond you are using is an extra strength bond and removal is difficult, try heat and then follow with the Poly Remover. Touch the bond with a heated iron to soften, saturate with Poly Remover before it completely hardens and the bond should be easy to pull off. Dab on more Poly Remover to scalp hair to remove any additional glue remaining to the hair.

Still too slow or bonds are really tough? Apply coconut oil on bonds and then use a hair dryer to warm up the glue until it softens. Follow with Poly Remover to complete the removal. If the removal too slow or if the bond is still resisting, apply coconut oil to the bonds, then use a hair dryer to warm up the glue until it is soft. Follow with Poly Remover to complete the removal. One stylist told us in an extreme case, she removed a stubborn bond with the combination of cracking the bond with pliers, saturating with Everclear, then applying Coconut Oil to finish the removal.

If you have ever had your hair dyed red, you know the upkeep it takes to keep that hue fresh and bright. Every 2 to 3 weeks, you’ll need a touch up. Red hair dye is among the hardest to maintain for a simple reason. When you artificially color your hair with red dye, you are introducing color molecules that expand with the aid of hydrogen peroxide and trap themselves under the cuticle layer in the cortex. Artificial reds are the smallest molecules and are the easiest to dislodge and wash out.

Here are some techniques we can use to extend the life of red hair:

1) Ionix Maintenance Spray contains anti-oxidants that can slow fading and act as a sunscreen to protect hair from sun damage.
2) Try to wash your hair as little as possible. Dry shampoo comes in handy to freshen up oily roots and maintain hair styles.
3) Use color enhancing shampoos and conditioners specifically for red shades. Most likely, they will contain less harsh substances that accelerate color loss.
4) Keep hair well moisturized with conditioners and treatments.
5) Get a Red Cellophane gloss treatment. It enhances the color, seals it and adds a glossy finish that lasts up to 6 weeks.
6) Use Cool water to wash your hair, especially when rinsing conditioner out.
7) Avoid using hair dryers and other heated styling tools.
8 ) Want a natural way to enhance color? Try beet juice, carrot juice or Henna; leave on for 1 hour, then rinse.

A great home remedy for shiny hair is a vinegar rinse. Each hair has an outer layer of hair called cuticles. The cuticle is made of overlapping layers of long scales that lie along the surface of each strand of hair. When we shampoo our hair, the shafts open and residual ingredients get trapped underneath it, resulting in ragged uneven hair. If using on hair extensions, try to only saturate the lower half of the hair.

How does vinegar help? The properties in vinegar removes shampoo and other product build up underneath that makes hair dull. Most shampoos and soaps are alkaline; vinegar has an acidic property which will control the PH balance in hair.

After shampooing, mix one cup of either white or apple cider vinegar with one cup water and pour over hair then rinse thoroughly. Once the vinegar rinses all the debris, the hairs cuticles close resulting in smooth and shiny hair. For an even bold effect rinse with a blast of cold water to seal those cuticles.

As the weather changes from cold and dry to moist and warm, the humidity caused by this can make hair frizzy. Why exactly does hair frizz though? It boils down to how your hair absorbs the moisture in the air. Here are the main reasons:

1) The shape of your hair

If you have naturally curly or course hair, the proteins in your hair are distributed unevenly which results in your hair absorbing moisture in different places. This will cause swelling at random intervals of your hair and make it “bumpy”.

2) Damaged hair

Damaged hair can be the result of chemicals (perms, dying, chlorine) or just everyday styling that can cause the cuticles on the hairs to become dry and the shafts to lift up. This also results in abnormal absorption which can cause hairs to swell differently.

On days when there is an abundance of moisture in the air, the quality of your hair defines how much it will frizz. There are ways to help the fight with humidity and frizz. You can first try to restore the moisture your hair may have lost with deep conditioners and leave in conditioner sprays. High molecular weight dimethicones perform the best on human hair for eliminating frizz. When shopping for hair care products, read the ingredients and select conditioners containing dimethicones. The consistent use of these can help your hair grow stronger and leave hair shafts harder to penetrate with moisture.

A more immediate fix is to coat your hair and hair extensions with a protector that will not even let water penetrate the hair. A lot of anti-frizz products are designed to coat the shafts so that they provide a smooth barrier to immediately change the look as well as prevent moisture from being absorbed. The bottom line? Try to restore moisture and maintain quality and use glosses and protectors to help hair look sleek.

Have any tips about how you control frizz? Share them here!